Haute Couture & brands

Giorgio Armani

 Giorgio Armani gave us this time around, in the runway we got to experience once again who is this truly fashion icon. The audience remembered the women the way they used to be, with lace and tulle, an experience  of the reborn of a twenties/thirties woman that walks confident into the new modern world, Armani wanted to show that true beauty comes from the inside out and how this can represent elegance.

Valentino

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli connect with many other designers trying to evoke nostalgia but most importantly made the audience forget the expected and expect the unexpected. Inspired by the idea of wunderkammer or cabinet of curiosities they became inspired by the magic feeling of wondering what you may find and the surprise this originates. One of the most shocking element of this show was the display of daywear, trying to attract the audience to exude opulence as a matter of every day.          

Atelier Versace

Lust, carnality and the ebullience of womanhood was all over the place at the Atelier Versace show, this is how Donatella inspired by the black and white photography of the thirties presented a collection full of excitement where the gowns became part of the anatomy of models such as Naomi Campbell or Lindsey Wixson and where the seams transport the outsides to travel all over their skin with sensuous fabrics like lace or leather and a new form of construction that got the collection to flirt with the by stander and show the interior as an exterior and not being shy about it.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior is one of the most important fashion houses, He delivered a new vision to what couture is supposed to be, trying to mix and match pieces that created, once again, freedom. Simons encouraged with this collection to make fashion work. Trying to dare fashion to look around the world he took the viewers to every different continent and it was very explicit in the details that were used in this particular show, from the all American jacket mixed with the tribal prints, it was possible to see how the pieces could come together to make something unique. This is how Simons took a stand pro normality and encouraged the fashion world to understand the need to truly understand what the costumer wants and translate this to the runway, saying then that fashion ought to adapt to the necessities of the contemporary woman

Chanel

 when designing one of the most successful collection for this week. Inspired by the cinematography of Aldous Huxley “Brave New World” this collection took the people in the room to the past and notion of how the future, when ask about the matter Lagerfeld suggested the only way to transform into the future is with fashion. In a room full of sci-fi moments where the fabrics got an element of the new era with 3D formations, the details made into the tweeds or even flannel got together with a lustrous lamé that gave the illusion of coming from another planet.

Giambattista Valli

Flowers and colors, that is what the designer knows  and what the costumers are waiting for. Inspired by the intricate work of porcelain where details make the best piece, Valli took this to the next level transforming tulle and satin into an expression of the true Giambattista Valli SARL woman, she is almost too sweet and full of femininity and in the rising of becoming something more, in this collection the spectators got to see the real blooming of this girl, starting with satin whites that evoked an innocence to get to fun, bright, almost neon colors that speak of the presence of a woman.

Jean Paul Gaultier

As usual Jean Paul Gaultier shows the sense of what is couture.  He transformed the inspiration theme into a grand show, every fiber of this collection took you back to the mystical and strong woman that people adore, this is how Gaultier presented names such as Black Panther or Catwoman in specific gowns that made you laugh and be engaged by the goddess walking trough the runway. There was a level of zaziness and playfulness to this couture show where the viewers got to see even big reality tv star Nabilla Benattia, this gave the show a matter of exaggeration and made it down to earth that audience could not help but enjoy.

Maison Martin Margiela

This time around Maison Martin Margiela showed once again a true sense of internal view into the communication created in fashion, pieces created with the sense of vintage and future were created with the help of already worn clothes, a fifties prom dress transform into his hands to create a story of that show time as no excuse to take fashion into the next level. Margiela truly gave a new life to the word past and to this specific pieces that more than fashion tried to illustrate a political point of view where models became different individuals with specific masks that made every outfit unique and worth keeping eyes on. Transformation and the need for new concepts are what made Margiela’s show one of the best of the week.